Using a Neutral Density Filter

Since my last post I have indeed been shooting exclusively in manual mode. I've played with changing the ISO, the aperture and the shutter speed to get a well exposed shot, and although I haven't taken any pictures worth bragging about, I have learnt a lot and believe I'm taking better exposed pictures as a result.

I can highly recommend going fully manual, you will really get to understand your exposures so much better.

Ever since I began trying to take long exposure shots of waterfalls I've been coveting a neutral density filter. The problem with taking longer exposures of white water is that although you get the silky look, the white tends to be over exposed. Which is where the neutral density filter comes in.

A neutral density filter is like a pair of sunglasses. It reduces the amount of light coming through the lens, therefore allowing a longer exposure - to get the silky movement - without blowing out the highlights. The filters come in various strengths, depending on how many stops down of light they block.

I have a variable ND filter on order, but at present am working with a Hoya NDX400 which is effectively a 9 stop filter. This filter is considered the grand daddy of ND filters and came with a hefty price tag, but hey, it's Christmas right? It's also summer, so no waterfalls anywhere near me at present. Lots of ocean and sunsets though.

I had to head up to Carnarvon for a teaching session, so I threw the swag in the car and headed north on Thursday, stopping in at Gladstone for the night. This is an old loading jetty on Shark Bay, now disused and falling apart, but the shallow waters of Shark Bay make for a good subject for my first attempt at a long exposure shot with the filter.

The following photo was taken at f/18 for 30 sec, ISO 100 using my EFS 10-22mm lens at 10mm. Without the ND filter this would just be white. I've done some post processing to bring out some of the colours.

Comments always appreciated.